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Tales of Luxury

Akbar's palaces with a historian guide

Walk through the halls, courtyards and pavilions of Akbar's short-lived capital with a guide who reads the buildings for you: where the emperor sat in public, where he debated with scholars of every faith and where his household lived.
Akbar's palaces with a historian guide
Photo: Marcin Białek · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

We start at the Diwan-i-Aam, the hall of public audience, a long colonnade around a wide lawn where Akbar sat in a raised pavilion to hear petitions. From there the royal complex opens into a series of courtyards, each on a slightly different level, laid out with a precision that becomes clear as you walk.

The Diwan-i-Khas, the hall of private audience, holds the famous central pillar, carved with brackets that fan out to support a circular seat. Nearby are the Anup Talao, a square pool with a platform at its centre, and the Panch Mahal, a five-storey pavilion of open columns. Your guide shows how Hindu, Persian and Central Asian ideas meet in the carving.

The walk ends at the palace traditionally called Jodha Bai's, the largest residence in the complex, and at Birbal's house, with its carved sandstone brackets. Most people need about two and a half hours. We finish with cold drinks in the shade before walking across to the mosque complex.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

How long should I spend at Fatehpur Sikri?

Allow three to four hours for the royal palaces and the mosque complex together, plus about an hour each way from Agra. That makes a comfortable half-day if you leave at 7:30 am, or a relaxed full day with lunch. Add two to three hours if you are combining it with Keoladeo National Park in winter.

Why was Fatehpur Sikri abandoned?

Akbar moved his court away in the mid-1580s, about fifteen years after building began. Historians give several reasons: an unreliable water supply, the need to be nearer the north-west frontier at Lahore and the shifting priorities of the empire. No single cause is certain. The result is a Mughal capital preserved almost as it was left.

Is Fatehpur Sikri suitable for older travellers?

Mostly, yes. The palace complex is largely level, with some steps between courtyards and uneven stone in places. The Buland Darwaza has a long, steep flight of steps, which can be avoided by entering the mosque from the palace side. We keep the visit to the cooler morning hours and build in rest stops in the shade.

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