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Tales of Luxury

The painted chhatris of Ramgarh

An afternoon in Ramgarh Shekhawati, a merchant town with painted cenotaphs, temples and havelis, including a group of chhatris built by the Poddar family whose domes are covered with scenes from the Ramayana.
The painted chhatris of Ramgarh
Photo: Sharvarism · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Ramgarh was founded in the 18th century by Poddar merchants who left Churu after a dispute with the local ruler. They built a town of havelis, temples, wells and cenotaphs, and Ramgarh became one of the richest towns in Shekhawati. Its painted chhatris, memorials to family members, are among the finest anywhere in the region.

Inside the domes of the Poddar chhatris, paintings tell the stories of Rama, Krishna and the gods in rows of figures, with borders of flowers and animals. The quality is high and many of the paintings have kept their colour. Nearby temples and havelis add more frescoes, some in better condition than others.

Ramgarh is about 50 km from Mandawa, so we pair it with Fatehpur on one day. Late afternoon light suits the chhatris. Caretakers open the buildings for a small fee. Ramgarh has fewer visitors than Mandawa, which makes the paintings easier to see in peace.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What is a chhatri

A chhatri is a domed memorial pavilion, often built over the cremation site of a ruler or a wealthy family member. In Shekhawati, merchant families built painted chhatris, decorated inside with religious and everyday scenes. One of the finest groups is in Ramgarh, built by the Poddar merchant family, with domes painted with the Ramayana and Krishna stories. Late afternoon light suits them.

How far is Ramgarh from Mandawa

About 50 km, roughly an hour by car. We usually combine Ramgarh with Fatehpur, which lies between them, on a single day trip from Mandawa. Ramgarh was founded in the 18th century by Poddar merchants from Churu, and its painted chhatris are among the finest in the region. Caretakers open the buildings for a small fee.

Is Ramgarh Shekhawati worth visiting

Yes, for its chhatris and temples, which have some of the best-preserved frescoes in the region, and for its quiet streets. It suits travellers who want to see more than Mandawa. It has fewer visitors than Mandawa, so the paintings are easier to see in peace. We go in the late afternoon, when the light suits the chhatris, after a morning in Fatehpur.

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