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Tales of Luxury
Jaipurcraft

Block printing with the families of Bagru

A morning in the printing village of Bagru, 30 km west of Jaipur, with a Chhipa family who still print cloth by hand using carved wooden blocks, natural dyes and the mud-resist technique called dabu.
Block printing with the families of Bagru
Photo: Hiart · CC0, Wikimedia Commons

Bagru's printers have worked the same way for generations. Cotton is washed and treated, then printed with teak blocks carved in nearby workshops, using dyes from indigo, pomegranate rind, turmeric, iron rust and alizarin. In dabu printing, a paste of mud, lime and gum is printed onto the cloth to resist the dye, which gives Bagru prints their soft, cracked lines. The cloth then dries in the sun on open ground.

We visit a family workshop, not a showroom. You see the block carvers, the dye vats and the printing tables, and then print your own piece under the eye of a master printer. It is harder than it looks: the block must land in exactly the right place each time, and a skilled printer works quickly and without measuring.

The drive from Jaipur takes about an hour each way. On the way back, Sanganer, 16 km south of the city, adds a second printing tradition and its handmade paper workshops. In Jaipur, the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing at Amber is the best place to see the history of the craft. Check current status of opening days before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What is the difference between Bagru and Sanganer printing

Bagru is known for darker, earthy colours and the dabu mud-resist technique, traditionally on off-white or coloured grounds. Sanganer is known for finer, delicate floral prints on white grounds. Both use hand-carved wooden blocks. Seeing both in one day shows how two villages near Jaipur developed different styles.

Can I print my own fabric in Bagru

Yes. The families we work with let guests print a scarf or a length of cloth under guidance. Dyed pieces need time to dry and be washed, so they are usually sent to your hotel the next day or later in your journey.

Is it worth visiting Bagru if I am not interested in textiles

It is a good half-day even for non-specialists: a working village, a family workshop and a clear look at how the cloth sold all over the world is made. If time is short, the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing near Amber Fort gives a shorter introduction.

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