Red havelis and bhujia in the old city
Bikaner's merchants, many of whom made fortunes in Calcutta and other trading cities, built large havelis in the old city from the late 19th century. The Rampuria havelis are the best known, with carved red sandstone facades, balconies and, inside some, painted rooms and European furniture. Many are still homes, and a few have been restored as guesthouses.
Walking with a guide, you move through narrow lanes, past small temples and squares, and stop where families allow you to look into a courtyard. The light in the late afternoon turns the stone deep red and the lanes fill with people buying vegetables and sweets.
Bikaner gave its name to bhujia, a crisp snack of gram and moth bean flour with spices, and the old city's shops make it fresh daily. We stop at one to taste it warm, then for kachori and the soft rasgulla Bikaner is also known for. The walk ends at the car near Kote Gate.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Can you go inside the havelis in Bikaner
Some havelis are private homes and can only be seen from the street. With a local guide, a few families welcome visitors into courtyards, and some havelis now operate as guesthouses or small museums. We arrange access where possible. The Rampuria havelis are the best known, with carved red sandstone facades and balconies. Late afternoon light turns the stone deep red.
What is Bikaneri bhujia
A crunchy snack made from moth bean and gram flour dough, seasoned with spices and pressed into thin strands before frying. It originated in Bikaner and is now sold across India. Fresh bhujia from an old Bikaner shop tastes far better than packaged versions.
Is the Bikaner old city walk easy
Yes. The walk is mostly flat, covers about 2–3 km and takes a couple of hours at an easy pace. Lanes are narrow and busy with motorbikes, so wear comfortable shoes and follow your guide. We go in the late afternoon, stop for fresh bhujia, kachori and rasgulla, and end at the car near Kote Gate.
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