A Newar food walk through old Patan
Newar cooking is the oldest cuisine of the Kathmandu Valley and quite unlike the dal bhat most visitors know. It is rich in buffalo meat, beaten rice, lentil pancakes, pickles, roasted soybeans and spice, and much of it is tied to festivals and family rituals. The classic plate is samay baji, a ceremonial set of beaten rice, spiced buffalo, black soybeans, ginger, egg and pickled vegetables. We taste it first at a family kitchen near the square, with the guide explaining each element and its meaning.
From there we walk to a stall for bara, a pancake of ground black lentils fried on a griddle, sometimes topped with egg or minced meat, and to a small shop for chatamari, a thin rice-flour crepe often called Newar pizza. Yomari, a steamed rice dumpling filled with molasses and sesame, is made above all in December for the Yomari Punhi festival but is sold in some places through the year. Vegetarian versions of most dishes are available, and we brief the cooks in advance.
We finish in a courtyard restaurant with a glass of aila, the local rice spirit, or a sweet lassi for those who prefer it. The portions are small tastings rather than full meals, and six or seven stops make a satisfying dinner. Kitchens are chosen with care for hygiene, and we avoid raw salads and unboiled water. If you have allergies or avoid meat, alcohol or particular spices, tell us before the day and we adjust the route and the dishes.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Is Newar food spicy?
Some of it is. Pickles, called achar, and the spiced buffalo in samay baji can be hot, while bara, chatamari and yomari are mild. Our guide tells you which dishes carry heat before you try them, and cooks can tone down the chilli if asked in advance. The yoghurt and beaten rice on the plate help balance the spice.
Can vegetarians join a Newar food walk?
Yes. Newar cooking uses a lot of buffalo meat, but many dishes have vegetarian forms, including bara without egg, chatamari with vegetables, beaten rice with soybeans and potato, and yomari. We brief each kitchen in advance so that vegetarian plates are prepared separately. Jain or strict no-onion and no-garlic diets need more notice, so tell us when you book.
Is street food in Patan safe to eat?
With care, yes. We choose kitchens and stalls our team knows, where food is cooked fresh and served hot. We avoid raw salads, cut fruit and unboiled water, and we carry bottled water. Most guests eat everything on the walk without problems. If you have a sensitive stomach, we can keep the route to two courtyard restaurants instead of street stalls.
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