Birding the Tso Moriri wetlands

Tso Moriri and its surrounding wetlands are protected as a wetland of international importance. In summer, migrating birds arrive from South Asia to breed: bar-headed geese, which fly over the Himalaya at extraordinary heights, brown-headed gulls and great crested grebes. The marshes at the northern end of the lake, near Korzok, are the most productive. Ruddy shelduck are common too. The wetlands are a protected Ramsar site. Its marshes are fragile.

We go out at first light with a naturalist guide, a spotting scope and binoculars, driving slowly to vantage points and then walking quietly. Nesting birds must not be disturbed, so we keep at least 100 m away and stay on the tracks. Kiang, the Tibetan wild ass, often graze the plains nearby, and you may see Tibetan wolf tracks. Mornings are best for light. The scope helps. Move slowly.

Black-necked cranes are most often seen in wetlands to the east and south, such as near Hanle and around the Changthang marshes, but they have been recorded around Tso Moriri. Sightings are never guaranteed. The light, the silence and the reflections of the peaks on the water are reward enough. Bring binoculars and a long lens if you photograph. Warm layers and patience are essential. Breakfast follows at the camp.