Crossing Khardung La to Nubra
Leaving Leh, the road winds up past the last houses of Gangles and the checkpoint at South Pullu, where permits are inspected. From here the tarmac is often broken and the views open out behind you over Leh, the Indus valley and the Stok range. On a clear day you can pick out Stok Kangri and the line of peaks towards Zanskar. The air thins quickly as you climb. Stop often.
Khardung La is a broad saddle crowded with prayer flags, army buildings, a small cafeteria and many visitors taking selfies by the sign. The real height, measured by modern surveys, is about 5,359 m. The sign says more, which is part of the fun. We keep the stop short, because at this height even fit visitors feel light-headed after 20 minutes. Hot tea at the cafeteria helps. Keep warm layers handy.
The descent through North Pullu and Khardung village is the moment the landscape changes. The valley opens below, and soon you are among the first villages, fields of barley and the long gravel plain of the Shyok. We stop for lunch near Diskit, about 4.5 hours after leaving Leh, and drive on to your camp or retreat. Nubra's lower height makes the evening comfortable. Lunch is usually near Diskit. Rest in the afternoon.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How high is Khardung La really?
Modern GPS surveys put Khardung La at about 5,359 m. The signboard at the top claims 5,602 m, a figure that has been repeated for decades but is not accurate. Either way it is very high, and visitors should stop for no more than 15–20 minutes. Children and seniors should be fully acclimatised before crossing.
Is Khardung La open all year?
The road is kept open for most of the year by the Border Roads Organisation, but it closes for hours or days after heavy snowfall, mostly between November and April. In summer, closures are rare and brief. We check road status every morning before setting off. Check current status before you travel.
Can we cross Khardung La on our first day in Ladakh?
No. Crossing a 5,359 m pass on the day you fly into 3,500 m risks serious altitude sickness. We always keep at least two full nights in Leh, and ideally three, before the Nubra drive. Nubra itself sits lower than Leh, so the night after the crossing is usually comfortable.
Also in Nubra Valley
More hours to plan around
