Hemis monastery and its museum

The approach to Hemis is a narrow side valley, and the monastery appears suddenly among poplars, its walls tucked into the slope. Its main courtyard, used for the summer festival, is lined with painted galleries and leads to the assembly hall and the chapels, where gilded statues of Padmasambhava and the Buddha sit behind butter lamps. Prayer flags and chortens line the approach. The courtyard is the setting for the summer Tsechu.

The museum, in the lower levels, displays the monastery's collection: painted thangkas, some centuries old, masks used in the cham dances, ritual objects in silver and copper, and a library of texts. It is the best monastic collection in Ladakh, though labels are brief. Your guide will explain the iconography and the history of the Drukpa lineage. Some objects are rarely shown outside the festival. Allow at least 45 minutes for it.

We usually reach Hemis by mid-morning after visiting Thiksey or Stakna. Lunch can be at the monastery cafe or a picnic by the Indus. The drive back to Leh takes an hour, leaving the afternoon free. Museum hours and fees change, so check current status before you travel. Wear modest clothing, and remove your shoes before entering the halls. Photography is not allowed in the museum. A small donation is appreciated.