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Vadakkunnathan temple and the old city

An early walk with a local guide around the Vadakkunnathan temple and Thekkinkadu Maidan in the centre of Thrissur, explaining Kerala temple architecture, the history of Sakthan Thampuran's city and the Pooram that fills this ground each spring.
Vadakkunnathan temple and the old city
Photo: Challiyan at Malayalam Wikipedia · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Vadakkunnathan temple stands on a low hill in a walled compound of about 9 acres in the middle of Thrissur, its four gateways facing the cardinal points. Its architecture is classic Kerala: circular and square shrines with copper roofs, carved wooden brackets, and murals inside the corridors. The temple is dedicated to Shiva, and is among the oldest in the state.

Only Hindus may enter the inner temple, and a dress code applies. Non-Hindu guests walk the open ground of Thekkinkadu Maidan around the temple walls, which is shaded by old trees and busy in the morning with walkers and devotees. Your guide shows where the Pooram's elephants line up, where the Kudamattam parasol exchange happens, and where the fireworks are set off.

We continue to the Shakthan Thampuran palace, a Kerala-Dutch style building that now houses a museum of bronzes and sculptures, and to Our Lady of Dolours Basilica, with its tall white bell towers, showing Thrissur's strong Christian community. The walk ends with breakfast at a traditional vegetarian restaurant near the temple. Check current status before you travel for timings.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Can non-Hindus enter Vadakkunnathan temple?

No, the inner temple is open only to Hindus, as at most traditional Kerala temples, and men must remove shirts and wear a mundu. Non-Hindus can walk the large open ground around the temple walls and see the gateways. Check current status before you travel, as rules are set by the temple board.

What is Thekkinkadu Maidan?

The large open ground surrounding the Vadakkunnathan temple in central Thrissur, ringed by the Swaraj Round road. It is the stage for Thrissur Pooram, when rival temple groups bring their elephants and percussion orchestras here. On other days, it is a shaded public space for walkers.

How long does a Thrissur city walk take?

About three hours, covering the temple surroundings, Shakthan Thampuran palace and Our Lady of Dolours Basilica, with breakfast. We start early to avoid the heat. It combines easily with a visit to Kerala Kalamandalam or the Muziris heritage sites later in the day.

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