Kathakali evening with make-up and story

Kathakali is Kerala's classical dance-drama, developed in the 17th century from temple traditions. Full performances once lasted all night; the Fort Kochi theatres present a version of about an hour, preceded by a demonstration of the language of gesture. The real reason to come early is the make-up. From around 5 pm the actors sit on the floor and grind rice paste and mineral pigments, then paint their faces in layers that take more than an hour to complete.

Each colour signals a character. Green faces, called pacha, are heroes and gods; red-streaked faces are proud villains; black faces are hunters and forest dwellers. The actors communicate only through the 24 basic hand gestures, called mudras, and through rapid eye and eyebrow movements. Before the performance, one actor demonstrates the nine emotional states of Indian aesthetics, and your guide explains the story you are about to see.

The music is live, with two singers, a chenda drum and a maddalam drum, and it is loud in a small room. We reserve front-row seats and, where possible, arrange for you to meet the actors after the show. For a deeper experience, we can arrange a longer private performance or a visit to Kerala Kalamandalam near Thrissur, the state's main training school.