Dosmoche
February, 28th–29th days of the 12th Tibetan month (lunar calendar)
Dosmoche, sometimes called the festival of the scapegoat, is held on the last days of the Tibetan year, usually in February. In Leh it takes place in the courtyard below Leh Palace, with monks from different monasteries taking turns to lead the rituals. Similar celebrations are held at Likir and at Diskit in Nubra. Each site has its own character. The festival in Leh is the largest, and it draws families from across the valley.
Monks in masks and brocade costumes perform cham dances, and ritual structures of thread and dough, called dosmo, are prepared. On the final day, these are carried in procession out of town and burned or thrown away, taking the misfortunes of the past year with them. Crowds of Ladakhis attend in winter clothes, and the atmosphere is festive despite the cold. Your guide explains the rituals. The mood is festive.
Dosmoche falls in the depth of winter, when temperatures in Leh fall below −15 °C at night. Few visitors come, which makes it a fine time to see a festival with the local community. Combine it with snow leopard tracking or the frozen Zanskar to make a winter journey. Dates change each year, so check current status before you travel. Pack warm layers. Heated hotels are essential. Dress in layers.
How to do it well
- Wear layers, a down jacket and insulated boots; you stand for hours in the cold.
- Ask your guide to explain the burning of the dosmo on the final day.
- Combine with a snow leopard trip in Hemis or Ulley.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Dosmoche festival?
Dosmoche is held on the 28th and 29th days of the twelfth Tibetan month, usually in February. Exact dates change each year. Check current status before you travel. It is celebrated in Leh, Likir and Diskit. Few visitors attend in winter.
Where is Dosmoche held in Leh?
In Leh, Dosmoche takes place in the area below Leh Palace in the old town. The final procession and burning of the effigies take place outside town. Likir and Diskit monasteries hold their own celebrations. Your guide will find a good spot.
Is Dosmoche crowded?
It is busy with Ladakhis but has few foreign visitors, because it falls in deep winter. That gives it an authentic, community feel. Arrive early for a good view of the dances. Stand in the sun to keep warm. Dress warmly for long hours.
How cold is Leh during Dosmoche?
In February, nights in Leh fall to about −12 to −15 °C and days are around freezing or a little above. Wear thermals, a down jacket, insulated boots, a hat and gloves. Heated hotels are essential. Hand warmers help. Bring warm boots.
Festival journeys
Routes built around the calendar
